The purchase tool is great, but it does not conform to the spirit of the Youtube channel [Workshop From Scratch]. It is easier to build what you need, and this self-made electric workshop crane fully proves it.
The cranes are assembled in a simple way using basic steel processing techniques. Plates and bars are processed with drill presses, band saws and grinders, but we can imagine that you can use hand tools if you wish. An all-terrain vehicle winch was put into use to complete the heavy work, powered by a set of 12V lead-acid batteries placed in the base. This design choice can be used not only as a mobile power source for the crane, but also as a counterweight for the base.
The resulting orange painted surface looks very clear and can move heavy equipment around the workshop well. The legs are reconfigurable, so even very heavy loads can be lifted by placing appropriate counterweights on the back. This is a major upgrade from the earlier version we launched last year, which uses hydraulic operation. Video after the break.
It must be pointed out that you should not use a winch as a hoist. Their braking mechanism is inherently insecure. The hoist is designed so that the catastrophic failure of the main components will not reduce the load. Usually, this is done by using a worm gear that cannot be reverse-driven somewhere in the gearbox. The winch is more tolerant of its mechanism, because generally speaking, the failure of the winch is not so much a disaster as a trouble. There is a clear warning on the winch, saying not to use them for lifting, and this is for good reason.
In addition to winches designed for lifting, they must use worm drives.
I agree with the view of the electric winch, it probably does not have a ratchet or worm drive to prevent sudden release. A few years ago, I built (er, bodged) a custom lift cart for lifting old PDP-11 minicomputers and peripherals into and out of a standard DEC H960 rack. Each of these weighs approximately 40 kilograms and is worth the effort to make this thing and avoid potential damage. I used a manual winch with a ratchet to prevent the computer from hitting the floor. You can read about building and how to build one here: http://computing.combicreations.com/projects/pdp11/PDP-Lifter/
In my case, I use a winch to hoist the engine in and out. If the engine falls, it cannot descend because I have a chassis blocking it. After getting off the car, I didn't get out of the car at all, but put it on the trolley.
I also have a broken engine hoist (the hammer cannot be used), so it seems like a good idea to make it run again, replace the hammer with an adjustable solid link, and use a winch and at the end of the arm pulley. But I would consider getting a winch with a "lifting rating".
I fully appreciate the ethics of constructing such a thing, but considering the comments above, I don't see its value at all in several respects.
Harbour Freight has a 2-ton elevator for "only" $240. I understand that time is money, but money is also money. But counting raw materials (unless you really have free waste, such as daily work in a mechanical workshop), and calculating the workshop time to build one, it's hard to say that this is very economical. Things with HF will be sold in large quantities from time to time, up to half the price. When it comes to such things, I am cheap, but for a device that may be widely used, it is worth buying for me.
The only exception I can see is whether it is used for special purposes, or must be physically suitable where commercial varieties are not suitable, or something similar. Even in that case, I might buy and modify the commercial version.
Recently, I have replaced several engines with my dad, and I don’t see any way to avoid the load. On the crawler with my back under the engine, when we bite on the motor mounting bolts, I emphasized only extending the arm under the motor. It's biting my arm instead of my chest. I understand [abjq] says that if you drop a motor, it "cannot go anywhere"...unless if it drops an inch while you are trying to align the motor mounting holes, chop off your fingers.
In addition, as can be seen from the article, he is using it to move heavy workshop equipment. Even if it is not dangerous in itself, dropping something "heavy" even a foot or two on... your feet... will ruin your day.
Similarly, I don't want to take anything from the factory job that looks good, but it's not a project for me. But thank you for sharing.
The problem with some HF stuff is that if you use "tons" to read the fine print, they mean 1,000 pounds instead of 2,000 pounds. Regarding the issues you mentioned, I will definitely feel very painful from trying 2 tons of HF and similar products or trying to buy/build products rated at 6,000 or 8,000 pounds.
The rating of the engine crane I see here depends on the maximum reach of your extended boom is 500 kg-1 ton-1,5 ton-2 ton.
discover! Those engine cranes come from several factories in China, they are all the same, you can find cheap ones. I will not use ATV-based winches to risk my life or health. It is better to buy a cheap hydraulic actuator (I forgot how it is called the piston that lifts the boom in English...) You can Buy them for 50 Euros. This is an arduous and great project. I like how clean he does it, but the engine selection is terrible. Maybe if he uses a suitable hoisting winch, then you can put these kits on your workshop I-beam to make a safer crane. He can also add some stoppers/interrupters to the cable.
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